When developing a new cosmetic product, it can be difficult to put into words exactly what the brand wants the product to be like.
This is because descriptions of sensory feel—such as “lightweight but not too runny,” “moisturizing but with minimal stickiness,” or “leaving the skin feeling moisturized even after absorption”—can mean different things to different people.
In these situations, a reference product can help communicate the desired product direction more clearly.
Providing the manufacturer with an existing product similar to what the brand envisions—and explaining which aspects should serve as reference points—can help both parties begin development with a shared understanding of the desired direction.
What Is the Purpose of a Reference Product?
Providing a reference product does not mean that it will be replicated exactly.
An important role of a reference product is to provide a concrete benchmark that helps the manufacturer understand the product direction the brand wants to pursue.
For example, a brand might provide a particular cream as a reference and request:
“We would like it to have a similarly lightweight feel during application, but leave the skin feeling slightly more moisturized afterward.”
This communicates the desired sensory feel much more clearly than simply requesting a “lightweight cream.”
Therefore, rather than defining exactly what the finished product must be, a reference product serves as a starting point for the brand and manufacturer to align on the development direction.
What Does a Manufacturer Evaluate in a Reference Product?
When a reference product is provided, the manufacturer examines characteristics such as its formulation and sensory feel and confirms which aspects the brand wants to use as reference points.
The relevant characteristics may vary by product, but the following elements can generally help inform the development direction:
- Formulation type and viscosity
- Application feel and spreadability
- Absorption
- Stickiness and residual feel
- Color and fragrance
- Overall user experience
The goal is not to replicate all of the reference product’s characteristics, but to identify the specific characteristics the brand wants to achieve.
Even when reviewing the same product, one brand may prioritize its lightweight feel during application, while another may focus more on the moisturized feel it leaves after use.
It is therefore important to explain which aspects of the reference product the brand wants to use as references and which it would like to change.
Should Only One Product Be Used as a Reference?
It is not necessary to use only one product as a reference.
A brand may not be able to find every desired characteristic in a single product.
For example, a brand can use different products as references for different characteristics:
Reference A — Lightweight feel during application
Reference B — Moisturized feel after absorption
Reference C — Smooth finish
When using multiple reference products, it is important to explain which characteristic each product is intended to illustrate rather than simply providing several products.
Doing so makes the role of each reference clear, even when multiple products are used.
Is Providing a Reference Product Enough?
A reference product is a useful development benchmark, but providing one product alone does not determine the entire development direction.
Even when the goal is to achieve a similar sensory feel, the actual development direction may vary depending on factors such as the product concept, key ingredients, target market, target manufacturing cost, or price positioning.
Providing the following information along with the reference product can help establish a clearer product direction:
- Product concept
- Desired key ingredients or features
- Target market or target consumer
- Desired sensory feel and characteristics to avoid
- Target manufacturing cost or price positioning
- Other important development requirements
Not every detail needs to be finalized from the outset.
However, it is important to communicate which elements are the highest priorities for the product. This makes it easier to determine which aspects of the reference product should serve as benchmarks and which should be adjusted.
Even with a Reference Product, the First Sample Is Not the Final Product
Even when the reference product and development direction are clear, the first sample is not necessarily the final product. After reviewing the first sample, the brand can compare it with the reference product, assess how closely it matches the desired direction, and identify any necessary adjustments.
For example, feedback may include:
“Make it slightly more lightweight than the reference.”
“Make it feel lighter as it absorbs, but leave a slightly more moisturizing finish.”
“Reduce the stickiness while maintaining the moisturizing feel.”
After trying the sample, the brand can provide more specific feedback.
Through the process of reviewing samples and exchanging feedback, requirements that were initially difficult to express in words can be translated into more specific product characteristics.
A reference product can therefore be used not only to create the first sample, but also as a benchmark for comparing samples and aligning on what should be revised.
Conclusion
Providing a reference product does not mean saying, “Please make it exactly like this product.”
What matters is clearly explaining why the product was selected as a reference, which aspects the brand wants to use as reference points, and which aspects it wants to change. This information can serve as a common point of reference as the brand and manufacturer align on the product direction, review samples, and make revisions.
Ultimately, a reference product is not something to be reproduced exactly. It is a tool for defining the product the brand wants to create and communicating the development direction.
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