When planning a cosmetic product, brands need to consider not only which ingredients to include but also what those ingredients will be dissolved in and how they will be combined. Water is often used to dissolve various ingredients or as the base of a product. Creams and lotions made with both water and oil are familiar examples.
Some cosmetics, however, are formulated without added water. Such formulas are known as anhydrous formulations. Because their ingredient composition differs from that of products containing water, the methods used to achieve the desired texture and maintain product quality also differ.
What should be considered when developing an anhydrous formulation? Focusing on oil-based products, this article examines key considerations from ingredient selection through manufacturing and quality control.
1. How Are Ingredients Selected for Anhydrous Formulations?
Anhydrous formulations can be developed as liquids, such as facial oils, or in balm or stick form. The required ingredients and formulation methods vary depending on the type of product being developed.
The first step is to determine whether the desired ingredients can be incorporated without water. An ingredient that dissolves readily in water may not dissolve well in oil, so it is important to confirm whether it can be used in the formula and how it should be incorporated.
Ingredients that help determine the product’s physical form and sensory feel are also important. The types of oils used and how they are combined can affect how the product spreads on the skin and how it feels after application. In balms and sticks, waxes, shea butter, and similar materials may be used to adjust the product’s structure and texture.
For example, a stick must maintain its shape during application while still gliding smoothly over the skin. A balm intended to be scooped out with the fingers should be easy to pick up and spread. Considering how consumers will use the product makes it easier to define the target texture and select ingredients accordingly.
2. How Do Manufacturing and Filling Processes Differ?
The manufacturing method for an anhydrous product varies depending on the ingredients used.
Products made by blending liquid raw materials may not require heating. By contrast, when solid materials such as waxes are used, they may first need to be melted before being combined with other ingredients.
For products such as balms and sticks that are made by melting ingredients and allowing the mixture to set, the cooling process is also important. The cooling temperature and rate can affect how the product sets and how it feels during application.
During the filling stage, in which the melted formula is dispensed into its container, it is important to confirm that the container can withstand the temperature of the contents. When selecting a container, brands should therefore work with the manufacturer to assess not only its design and capacity but also its suitability for the manufacturing process.
3. What Should Be Evaluated During Storage and Use?
Once the product has been manufactured, brands need to assess whether it maintains its physical form and sensory qualities over time and whether contamination could occur during use.
Changes in Physical Form and Application Feel
Balms and sticks may become excessively soft during storage, or oil may seep out onto the surface. A product that was initially smooth may also develop a grainy texture.
These changes can make the product difficult to remove from the container or apply to the skin. The product’s condition should therefore be evaluated with the actual distribution and storage environments in mind.
Changes in Color and Odor
Oils may change in color or odor as they react with oxygen. These changes caused by oxidation also need to be managed.
Depending on the raw materials used, brands may need to consider whether ingredients that help slow oxidation are necessary. Containers that reduce exposure to light and air may also be considered.
However, managing oxidation and preventing the growth of bacteria and mold are separate issues.
Potential for Contamination During Use
Anhydrous formulations generally contain little water available to support microbial growth, making it more difficult for bacteria and mold to proliferate.
However, microorganisms can still be introduced during manufacturing or use. For example, if a product is scooped from its container with wet hands, water or microorganisms may enter the container during use. This is why the container structure and the way the product is dispensed also need to be considered.
It should therefore not be assumed that preservatives are unnecessary simply because a product is anhydrous. Whether preservatives are needed and whether microbiological testing is required can vary depending on the product. Contamination risks should be assessed based on the ingredient composition, container, and manufacturing and use conditions before appropriate control measures and tests are selected.
Conclusion
When planning an anhydrous formulation, brands need to consider the ingredients they want to use, the desired sensory feel, and how the product will be used. Appropriate ingredients and manufacturing methods must then be selected, and the product should be evaluated to confirm that its quality is maintained during storage and use.
Neo Mirae works with brands to review formulations, container options, and production approaches in line with each brand’s product concept. If you are planning an anhydrous product, discuss your development plan with Neo Mirae based on the product format and sensory feel you want to achieve.
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