When a cosmetics brand begins an OEM/ODM development project, sample development is the first stage where it can see how its product concept is taking shape.
Once the brand communicates its desired product concept, the manufacturer develops a formula and produces an initial sample based on that concept. However, the first sample is not necessarily the final product.
The brand evaluates factors such as sensory feel, viscosity, fragrance, and color, then goes through repeated rounds of feedback and revisions to bring the product closer to the brand’s vision.
So, how does the sample development process actually work in cosmetic OEM/ODM manufacturing?
Defining the Product Concept and Requirements
Before producing a sample, the brand should clearly define the type of product it wants to develop.
Providing information not only about the product category but also about the desired texture, sensory feel, key ingredients, fragrance, color, and target market allows development to begin with a clearer direction.
For example, rather than simply requesting a “moisturizing serum,” it is helpful to provide more specific requirements, such as:
- A lightweight, fast-absorbing feel
- A non-sticky finish
- A clear or translucent formula
- Specific ingredients, including those that support the product concept
- A fragrance-free formula or a preferred fragrance profile
If the brand has a reference product with a similar sensory feel, providing it can also help communicate the desired direction. However, a reference product serves as a guide for development and does not mean that the exact same product will be reproduced.
Developing the First Sample
Once the brand’s requirements have been defined, formula development and production of the first sample begin.
At this stage, the brand can evaluate how the initial product concept has been translated into an actual formula.
The specific evaluation criteria may vary depending on the product, but brands generally review key characteristics such as texture, viscosity, absorption, after-feel, color, and fragrance.
The first sample is not a finished product. Rather, it allows the brand to identify how the developed formula differs from the brand’s intended product direction and to define the focus of subsequent revisions.
Testing the Sample and Providing Feedback
After receiving the sample, the brand should use and evaluate it to identify the specific areas that need adjustment.
For example, rather than saying:
“I would like it to be a little more moisturizing.”
It is more helpful to provide specific feedback, such as:
“I would like the skin to feel slightly more moisturized after the product is absorbed, but I would also like the formula to feel less sticky than the current sample.”
Specific feedback helps the manufacturer understand the desired development direction more accurately.
It is also important to clearly identify the elements that need to be revised and prioritize them. If several characteristics are changed significantly at the same time, it may be difficult to determine which change affected the result.
Revising the Formula and Producing New Samples
Based on the brand’s feedback, the manufacturer revises the formula and produces a new sample.
Depending on the product, the desired result may be achieved after one revision, or several rounds of sampling may be required.
However, not every request can be addressed through a simple adjustment.
Adding a particular ingredient or significantly changing its concentration may affect the formula’s viscosity, color, fragrance, or stability. Adjusting the sensory feel may also change other product characteristics.
Formula revision is therefore less about changing one individual element and more about rebalancing the formula as a whole.
The greater the scope of the revision, the more likely it is that additional development or testing will be required. This may also affect the overall development schedule.
Sample production timelines and the number of revision rounds may vary depending on the product type, the complexity of the formula, and the scope of the requested changes. Brands should therefore confirm the expected timeline and development process during the early stages of the project.
Approving the Final Sample
Once the brand has completed its final review of the product’s texture and sensory feel, it approves the sample that will serve as the standard for commercial production.
At this stage, it is important to do more than simply confirm that the brand likes the sample. The specifications that will serve as the basis for production should be clearly established.
The final approved formula and sample serve as important reference points during commercial production.
Before giving final approval, the brand should therefore review all key characteristics carefully, including the texture, fragrance, color, and sensory feel.
Container Compatibility Should Also Be Evaluated
Finalizing the formula does not necessarily mean that commercial production can begin immediately.
The brand should also confirm that there are no issues when the formula is filled into the intended retail container.
For example, a highly viscous formula may not dispense smoothly through a pump, or certain formula and container material combinations may not be compatible.
Whenever possible, formula development and packaging review should not be treated as entirely separate processes. The compatibility between the formula and the actual container should be considered during development.
This can help reduce the risk of packaging-related issues that were not apparent during sample development but may arise during commercial production or after the product enters the market.
Sample Development Establishes the Standard for the Product
Cosmetic OEM/ODM sample development is not simply a process of receiving and reviewing samples from a manufacturer.
It is a process of defining the brand’s intended product direction, evaluating the actual formula, providing feedback, making revisions, and establishing the product standard for commercial production.
Clearly defining the product concept and requirements from the beginning and communicating the necessary revisions for each sample can make the development process more efficient.
Considering the packaging and target market alongside the formula during development can help reduce revisions and delays later in the production process.
Neo Mirae supports international beauty brands throughout the cosmetic product development process, from formula development and sampling through production.
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