Cosmetic product development is not limited to creating entirely new products from scratch.
Even a product that has already been developed and is currently on the market may require a review of its existing formula. This may happen when an ingredient can no longer be used, the requirements of the target market change, or the brand decides to update the product’s sensory feel or concept.
The process of modifying an existing cosmetic formula or redesigning it to meet new requirements is known as reformulation.
Reformulation is not simply a matter of replacing an ingredient. It requires consideration of both the characteristics of the existing product and the new development requirements.
So, when is cosmetic reformulation necessary, and what factors need to be considered together during the development process?
Why Is Cosmetic Reformulation Necessary?
There are many reasons why an existing product formula may need to be changed.
One of the main reasons is a change in cosmetic regulations. Permitted ingredients and restrictions vary by country and market, and these requirements may continue to change. Even a product that was previously compliant may require a review of its current formula when new regulations are introduced. If necessary, certain ingredients or their concentrations may need to be adjusted.
Raw material availability can also affect the need for reformulation. If an ingredient used in the product is discontinued, its manufacturer stops producing it, or its supply conditions change, alternative ingredients that can perform the same function must be considered.
Reformulation may also be necessary when launching an existing product in a new country. Even if a product is already being sold in one market, its existing formula may not meet the ingredient regulations or restrictions of another market. The brand must determine whether the existing formula can be retained for the target market and make any necessary adjustments to meet its requirements.
Brands may also choose to reformulate a product for reasons unrelated to regulations or raw material availability. This may include improving sensory characteristics such as spreadability or absorption, adding or removing specific ingredients, or updating an existing product to align with the brand’s new product standards or concept.
Is Changing Just One Ingredient Enough?
An important consideration in reformulation is that changing a single ingredient can affect the entire formula.
For example, even if a replacement ingredient initially appears to perform a similar function to the original, it may cause differences in the formula’s viscosity, pH, color, fragrance, or spreadability.
Ingredient changes may also affect the preservative system or product stability. The overall balance of the formula must therefore be evaluated when a replacement ingredient is introduced.
In particular, if a brand requests that only one ingredient be changed while keeping the sensory feel as close as possible to that of the existing product, it may also be necessary to adjust the combination or concentrations of other ingredients.
Reformulation is therefore less about replacing a specific ingredient and more about rebalancing the formula as a whole under the revised conditions.
What Should Be Preserved from the Existing Product?
In reformulation, it is important to determine not only which elements need to be changed but also which characteristics of the existing product should be preserved.
Depending on the brand’s priorities, maintaining the sensory feel of the existing product may be important, while retaining a specific ingredient or product concept may take priority in other cases.
The reformulated product is more likely to differ from the existing product if an ingredient that performs several functions must be changed or if one that significantly affects the structure of the formula needs to be replaced.
In such cases, the brand must establish clear priorities regarding which characteristics are most important to preserve.
For example, the development direction may vary depending on whether the priority is to maintain the sensory feel as closely as possible, remove a specific ingredient, or comply with the regulations of a new market.
What Needs to Be Re-evaluated After Reformulation?
Developing a revised formula does not mean that the reformulation process is complete.
The revised formula must be evaluated to confirm that it delivers the desired product characteristics. Depending on the scope of the changes, factors such as stability and production conditions may also need to be re-evaluated. Sample production and revision may need to be repeated as necessary before the final formula is approved.
Packaging may also be affected. For example, if reformulation changes the product’s viscosity, the brand may need to check whether the contents still dispense smoothly through the existing pump. If the ingredient composition changes, compatibility between the formula and the existing container may also need to be evaluated.
When a formula is changed, product information, including the ingredient list, may also need to be reviewed and updated to reflect the revised formula.
Ultimately, reformulation does not end with changes to the formula alone. Depending on the scope of the changes, related elements such as packaging, product information, and production conditions must also be reviewed.
Reformulation for Global Markets
Reformulation can become more complex for brands that sell their products in multiple countries.
Because cosmetic ingredient regulations and restrictions vary by market, a brand planning to launch an existing product in a new country must first determine whether the current formula complies with that market’s requirements.
This does not necessarily mean that the entire formula must be redeveloped. If the existing formula can be maintained, it may be used without modification. If only certain ingredients present an issue, adjustments may be focused on the relevant parts of the formula.
It is important to first determine where the product will be sold, identify the extent of the necessary changes, and then proceed with reformulation.
Regulations also continue to change, so products already on the market may need to be reviewed when necessary to ensure that they remain compliant with current requirements.
Reformulation Is Different from Developing a New Product
New product development involves creating the desired product from the beginning, whereas reformulation involves incorporating new requirements while preserving the important characteristics of an existing product as much as possible.
The reasons for reformulation and the scope of the required changes may vary by product. It is therefore important to first clarify which elements of the existing product should be preserved and which conditions need to be changed, and then determine the necessary scope of development and review.
Taking each product’s requirements and target market into account, Neo Mirae supports the entire cosmetic product development process, from formula development to packaging and production.
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