When beginning cosmetic product development, a brand does not need to have a finalized formula or detailed product specifications from the outset.
Development can also begin with an initial idea or reference product, such as “We want to create a product with this kind of sensory feel,” “We want to develop a product centered around this ingredient,” or “We want to retain the strengths of this product while taking it in a slightly different direction.”
However, the more specifically a brand communicates its desired product direction to the manufacturer, the easier it becomes to establish a clear starting point for development and exchange feedback on subsequent samples.
So, what information should a brand prepare and share when requesting cosmetic product development?
1. Define the Product Type and Core Concept
The first step in product development is to establish the general direction of the product.
Along with the basic product type—such as a serum, cream, toner, or cleanser—the brand can share who the product is intended for, which skin concerns or needs it should address, and which features should be emphasized most.
For example, even among moisturizing creams, the development direction may differ depending on whether the product is intended to be a lightweight daily moisturizer or one with a richer feel.
If there are features the brand wants to emphasize, such as moisturization, brightening, or firmness, it is helpful to communicate them at this stage. This direction can serve as a basis for evaluating key ingredients and the formula. However, any wording or claims used for the finished product should be reviewed alongside the required supporting evidence and the relevant requirements of the target market.
Not every detail needs to be finalized from the beginning. Development can start with the brand’s current product idea and core concept, with more specific details refined throughout the process.
2. Clarify Key Ingredients and the Desired User Experience
Once the product direction has been established, the brand can consider which ingredients it wants to highlight and how the product should feel during use.
If the brand has a specific key ingredient or desired concentration in mind, it can share this information so that the feasibility of the request can be evaluated during development. Any ingredients the brand wants to exclude should also be communicated at an early stage.
Desired ingredients or concentrations cannot always be incorporated exactly as requested. Ingredient characteristics, compatibility with the overall formula, product stability, and the relevant requirements of the target market must all be considered when evaluating feasibility.
In addition to ingredients, the desired texture and sensory feel are also important.
Describing the intended user experience as specifically as possible—including viscosity, spreadability, absorption, stickiness, moisturizing feel, and finish—can help establish a clearer direction for sample development.
For example, rather than simply requesting a “lightweight serum,” the brand can explain whether it should absorb quickly with minimal residual stickiness and whether it should still leave the skin feeling sufficiently moisturized after absorption.
Undesirable characteristics can also be communicated. Explaining whether the brand wants to avoid a strong fragrance, a heavy finish, or excessive stickiness can help clarify the development direction.
3. Communicate the Development Direction Using Reference Products
When it is difficult to describe the desired texture or sensory feel precisely in words, existing products can be used as references.
The important point is to explain which aspects of the reference product should be used as a benchmark rather than simply providing the product name or a sample.
For example, the brand may like the lightweight texture of Product A but want less stickiness, or it may want a finish similar to Product B but with a slightly more moisturizing feel.
It is not necessary to use only one product as a reference. Desired features can be drawn from several products, such as the texture of Product A and the finish of Product B.
Explaining not only what the brand likes but also what it wants to change can help communicate the desired direction more specifically.
Reference products are therefore best used not as standards for reproducing an identical product but as tools for communicating the brand’s desired product direction to the manufacturer.
4. Review the Target Market and Sales Conditions
Along with the product concept and sensory feel, it is important to consider where and under what conditions the product will be sold.
The brand should first specify the countries or primary markets in which the product will be sold. Requirements concerning cosmetic ingredients, labeling, product registration, and other regulatory matters can vary by market.
If a single product is intended for sale in multiple countries, considering the main target markets from the beginning can help reduce the likelihood that the formula or product specifications will need to be reviewed again later.
Pricing and product specifications should also be considered together.
Information such as the expected retail price range, the brand’s price positioning, the fill volume, and the packaging format can be used to evaluate the product specifications and the feasible scope of development. Manufacturing costs may vary depending on the raw materials, formula, container, and other packaging components selected, so the desired specifications and pricing conditions should be evaluated together.
Even if an exact target manufacturing cost has not yet been established, the brand can share its expected retail price range or intended price positioning.
The expected order quantity is another important consideration. In cosmetic production, separate minimum order quantities may apply not only to the formula itself but also to containers, labels, folding cartons, and other packaging components. Available specifications and unit costs may also vary depending on the production volume.
If the exact quantity has not yet been confirmed, the brand can begin by sharing an estimated range or target quantity.
5. Prioritize the Development Requirements
As product planning progresses, brands may develop an increasingly long list of requirements, including key ingredients and concentrations, sensory feel, packaging, price, and target markets.
Rather than assigning equal priority to every condition, it is important to distinguish between non-negotiable requirements and those that can be adjusted.
The available development options may vary depending on whether the highest priority is maintaining a key ingredient at a specific concentration, achieving a particular sensory feel, or meeting a target price range.
When the brand’s priorities are clear, it becomes easier to make the necessary adjustments during sample development and revision while maintaining the product’s core direction.
You Do Not Need to Decide Everything Before Making an Inquiry
For brands developing cosmetic products for the first time, it may be difficult to define all of the above information in detail from the outset.
A brand can begin with the ideas it already has—such as a product concept, reference products, or desired key ingredients—and refine details such as the texture, product specifications, and packaging through discussions with its manufacturing partner.
What matters is not having finalized product specifications in advance, but communicating the brand’s desired product direction and most important requirements as clearly as possible.
Based on each brand’s ideas and requirements, Neo Mirae supports the entire product development process, from formula development to packaging and production.
Start turning your product idea into a finished product with Neo Mirae.
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